5M blower plumbing

[GeneMiller]

I need the plumbing for a 5m. Threaded pipe, some elbows, flexible hose ect.

Thanks Gene

 

[Mike Draper]

I think EZ gets them from the dollar store.

 

[GeneMiller]

I need something a little more substantial then duct tape and paper towel rolls. Thanks anyway.

Gene

 

[Mike Draper]

Have you been to an Evco House of hose? They have many different options there, I am willing to bet you could find something. What size ID or OD (inner dimension) are you looking for? I know they carry alot of 3" and 4" and even 5" stuff. they have some stainless and lots of galvanized.

 

[GeneMiller]

Thanks Mike,
I'll give them a try. I'm going to call the manufacturer tomorrow. I think the opening is 5". I didn't measure it yet, I just know it's large and I didn't get any hits on google when looking for elbows that large.

Gene

 

[Farenheit251]

John's Custom machine shop aka hotheatexchangers.com in Largo FL. can get or make what you need. He also had some blower hose that looked to be much easier to work with than that black marine hose.

If you are opening up the plumbing on that thermalwave look at the filters in the tank. The Thermalwave I looked at appeared to have two 2" flow ezys. Pi x radius squared. If so Your going from a blower port of 4 Pi to 2 filters of 1 pi each.

 

[GeneMiller]

Brian,
I'm going to change the way it goes to the waste tank. I have the original design and it's a pain to clean the filters. A simple fix would be to enter just below the lid and then tee it up. Sliding the rubber hose back is #*!#* hard and is going to end up injuring my wrists.

Gene

 

[bob vawter]

go to the local plumbing supply store, get an appropriate size threaded close nipple and cut off about 1 1/2 " and the tig a tube that has been cut on a 45 and made into a 90 then put on the flowmaster silencers (two) and you are done

 

[Dolly Llama]

Bob nailed it on where to find the big fittings

local plumbing supply.
(the place where plumbers and pipe fitters buy their stuff)

If you know any plumbers/pipe fitters or HVAC outfits that work on commercial steam boilers, ask them.
they'll know where the nearest local supply house is.

This outfit is local to me and where I've bought fittings large and small.

http://www.jfgood.com/locations.html

that's the kind of place you're looking for

..l.T.A.

 

[GeneMiller]

Bob,

I don't know anything about welding but I was under the impression that you should weld the same metals together. My local plumbing doesn't have anything that large. I did find a supplier for aluminum pipe and fittings but I figured that somebody would actually have the different plumbing for each of the blower sizes making it a little easier.

Gene

 

[Dolly Llama]

Bob,

I figured that somebody would actually have the different plumbing for each of the blower sizes making it a little easier.

Gene

They're just standard pipe thread (NPT) aren't they?

ie..2", 2.5", 3", 4", 6" 10" NPT


..L.T.A.

 

[GeneMiller]

Larry they are just standard but I wanted aluminum because it would be easier to weld to aluminum.They are 4" npt. I found what I wanted I just though a carpet cleaning supplier would have the parts and I would give them my money. My local did so I tried here.

Gene

 

[Larry Cobb]

Gene;

We have some 4" pipe fittings and some 3" pipe fittings . Also 3" Aluminum 90° bends.

3" & 4" SS. tubing. Here is some typical blower piping and flex connectors:

More important for flow...
is utilizing a stainless silencer, that you hook up to the blower.

Larry

 

[Greenie]

I could have sworn all the Thermalwaves I've seen had reduced plumbing, form 4" to 3", are you sure your plumbing is 4" NPT?

 

[GeneMiller]

Greenie,
You are almost right. Mine goes from 4 to 3.5. Why not just leave it a straight 4". I'm not an engineer ,( I don't have any napkins) just a student of common sense.

Larry I noticed the picture you posted showed the same thing. Why not just use the larger pipe all the way thru. The cost difference would be small but I would think the benefiyts would be significent. Like I said before I'm not an engineer just a student of common sense

Gene

 

[Greenie]

I've been almost right my entire life...

Actually that SHARP 90 going from blower to tank at the releif valve is just as bad as the hose restriction.

You are gonna hate me even more when I tell you what the inside of your BL filterbox looks like...

Don't shoot the messenger.

Here is something that will help though:

.
.

 

[floorguy]

yea larry, why do you shrink it??? :shock: :shock:

bigger question...

why not tip the blower over and do a couple sweep elbows instead of 90s???

dunno, i think i want a seperate tank instead of that many 90s

 

[Greenie]

or...you could just do it like this was done 30years ago, and be done with it.

.
.

.
.
The common man's common sense carpet washing machine.

 

[Larry Cobb]

Think about where the vacuum restrictions ARE :
(in order of importance)

1. Wand & tube (5' of 1 7/8" ID +bends)

2. Vac Hose f/TM to wand (100 feet min.2.5" w/foam)

3. Silencer (needs improvement)

4. Recovery Tank (if it has baffles)

5. Two Ft. of 2.5" ID plumbing from blower to recovery tank

Larry

 

[GeneMiller]

Greenie,

I'm assuming that those are 2.5" connectors. To go along with your theory why don't you make them straight instead of a 90. You are right about the hard 90 on my machine. I can see it would be a little restrictive. I going to change the connection at the tank so I can clean my filters easier. It's starting to hurt my wrists twisting that hose back to get at them. That hard 90 will be gone. I'll put a relief valve on the tank.
It doesn't both me if you find fault with my machine. Sometimes engineers over do things with out thinking about it. While I'm welding the filter box is getting a little make over. Besides the 2" connections do you see an addition problem?

 

[floorguy]

Think about where the vacuum restrictions ARE :
(in order of importance)

1. Wand & tube (5' of 1 7/8" ID +bends)

2. Vac Hose f/TM to wand (100 feet min.2.5" w/foam)

3. Silencer (needs improvement)

4. Recovery Tank (if it has baffles)

5. Two Ft. of 2.5" ID plumbing from blower to recovery tank

Larry

That may be true Larry...BUT

why not work from 5 to 1 and fix what you can??

why go 2.5 when its 4??

why not design baffles with better air flow

why not choose i better silencer??

get what i am saying??

we (for the most part) have already solved the ole 1.5" wand... And yes you can only move so much through them lips..

why not make it so a blower has MORE then you can use, rather then only GIVING them so much??

If i regularly run 400' commercial runs, do i want a machine that has choked back blower plumbing, that MIGHT serve me....Or do i want a machine that i know with out a shadow that i could run 600'??

Thats just retarded thinking...

give them more....instead of less....period

 

[Greenie]

Greenie,

I'm assuming that those are 2.5" connectors.

Yes, pretty obvious when you put them side by side with 2", kinda tells a story.

To go along with your theory why don't you make them straight instead of a 90.

Like this?
'
'

'
'
If you look close on the TNT pictured, you will see that exact straight 2.5 nipple coming out of the blower, some TM mfgs. think they cost a bit much, but I wanted it super thin walled for maximum airflow.


You are right about the hard 90 on my machine. I can see it would be a little restrictive. I going to change the connection at the tank so I can clean my filters easier. It's starting to hurt my wrists twisting that hose back to get at them. That hard 90 will be gone.


Great!

I'll put a relief valve on the tank.

If you do, just make damn sure your blower filter is super clean, every 6 mo. or so unscrew it and run the machine without it, IF you notice a dramatic Increase in vacuum sans filter, you know your "clean" filter isn't really clean...junk it, and get a new one, they can be deceptive.

It doesn't both me if you find fault with my machine. Sometimes engineers over do things with out thinking about it. While I'm welding the filter box is getting a little make over. Besides the 2" connections do you see an addition problem?

The bottom of your 3" Stack inside the box, look at how close it is to the bottom of the box, it's too close, cut a 45 deg angle in the pipe like the bottom of this custom piece:

 

[Ron Werner]

Plus, why have a big ass blower on there if out of the gate its going to be restricted down to a blower a size smaller


I have a Roots 59,4' ports, it was plumbed 3" to the tank , 2" from the tank to the back of the truck. And I was wondering why I couldn't get decent vacuum at 150ft when other guys were claiming 400ft with a 4.7! Opened the Blower up more, to 4". changed the 2" to 3", added ft of 3" hose, made a world of difference.

 

[The Preacher]

Greenie, i'll need some free trinkets for the unauthorized use of my CUSTOM 2.5" vac tank adapter.

please let me know when yore website is up so i can make my choices soon!!!

 

[Shane T]

Plus, why have a big ass blower on there if out of the gate its going to be restricted down to a blower a size smaller


I have a Roots 59,4' ports, it was plumbed 3" to the tank , 2" from the tank to the back of the truck. And I was wondering why I couldn't get decent vacuum at 150ft when other guys were claiming 400ft with a 4.7! Opened the Blower up more, to 4". changed the 2" to 3", added ft of 3" hose, made a world of difference.

Exactly! If you going to reduce it to 2.5" from the start just use a 45 blower and save the cost of a larger blower.

 

[Greenie]

Greenie, i'll need some free trinkets for the unauthorized use of my CUSTOM 2.5" vac tank adapter.

please let me know when yore website is up so i can make my choices soon!!!

Hey Spanky, didn't you SELL that machine this year?

 

[Larry Cobb]

...why not make it so a blower has MORE then you can use, rather then only GIVING them so much??

If i regularly run 400' commercial runs, do i want a machine that has choked back blower plumbing, that MIGHT serve me....Or do i want a machine that i know with out a shadow that i could run 600'??

Thats just retarded thinking...

give them more....instead of less....period

If you want a machine that can run 600'...

you would have to start with:

1. A Blower that can run @ 17" hg. or higher, and has the heat-flow design to handle it
(new 4MR Sutorbilt)

2. A belt drive system to transfer peak HP from the engine to the blower.

3. A Recovery Tank without baffles
(which we have had for many years)

4. Better silencers
(which we have pioneered in low-restriction stainless steel )

Larry

 

[GeneMiller]

I'm not trying to start a battle between who makes the best truck mounts. I just wanted to make a few changes to make cleaning the blower filters easier. While I have the welder out I'll make the rest of the changes so I have 4 all the way to the filter box. I enjoy getting input from different sources it helps with ideas. When I get a chance I'll draw it up in sketchup and post the changes so people can says good idea or tear it apart. Either way is good.
Gene

 

[floorguy]

...why not make it so a blower has MORE then you can use, rather then only GIVING them so much??

If i regularly run 400' commercial runs, do i want a machine that has choked back blower plumbing, that MIGHT serve me....Or do i want a machine that i know with out a shadow that i could run 600'??

Thats just retarded thinking...

give them more....instead of less....period

If you want a machine that can run 600'...

you would have to start with:

1. A Blower that can run @ 17" hg. or higher, and has the heat-flow design to handle it
(new 4MR Sutorbilt)

2. A belt drive system to transfer peak HP from the engine to the blower.

3. A Recovery Tank without baffles
(which we have had for many years)

4. Better silencers
(which we have pioneered in low-restriction stainless steel )

Larry

1. Ill admit i dont know it all about this and that regarding your lift factor..(and this next part is cuz mine is broke lift gauge) Why do you need it at 17?? doesnt the glide help in loosening up some of that lift issue??? as well as running 2.5" most of the way??? You know the whole its bigger and thus less restriction yadda yadda.

2. Would love a belt drive unit (want to switch mine around anyway) that way if you want, you could over drive it slightly, or not...but it has OPTIONS (did i mention i liek OPTIONS???)

3. Seriously how much can baffles restrict it?? i mean mine (an old steamaction one) has like what? 6 or 8 2" holes in each one, not to mention the V shape cuts in the corners and the middle. Plus doesnt it help keep the water from just "slurping" into the blower?? dunno havent looked at any CLEAR tanks...lol

4. righty o...i am all for making it better and inovation...isnt that what we are doing here??



I am just speaking from my experience, and my ghetto rigged unit (yes i admit it. but hey i have a shit load more equipment for hard floors...anyway) When I

A. took out the elbows anywhere i could on the tank and made it a straight flow in
B. used my 2.5" out and instead of running to 1 single 2" I "Y'ed" it to 2, 2"
C. 2, 2" out into my single 2.5"

the vac I bet Doubled!!!!

Now if i could only get rid of them shitty little button filters they have on this tank


Why in the hell they went to these (steamaction) for their big bad blower units...ill never know :roll: :roll: :roll:

 

[GeneMiller]

Greenie,
Here is the new filter box design.I'll post it in X-ray so you can see the inside. I went straight 4 and 2 .2.5's It should be an improvement.

Gene